Posts Tagged ‘camber’

HT-Spec TSX gets new rollers…Steam-rollers from 949Racing and Hankook to be specific.

Thursday, September 23rd, 2010

After months and months of waiting for the first batch of 949Racing 6ULR wheels to come in, and more months and months of deciding which tire and which color to option, and more months of trying to sell the Mugen M5 wheels I’ve been running while waiting…I have finally installed the first signature set of HT-Spec Wheels/Tire package on the HT-Spec Project TSX!

What makes this package HT-Spec? Specifically, the sizing. When it comes to choosing wheels, there a lot of different camps on how to do it “right.” Some prefer wheels 50% wider than stock with tires that are 10% narrower than stock. Some prefer to run whatever used JDM wheel that fits “pretty good” without fender rolling. Some want to keep the original size. I am with the camp that feels the widest tire possible on a wheel that provides a square sidewall and perfect backspacing is best. An people that share this opinion have a hero. His name is Emilio, and he runs a wheel company called 949Racing.

949Racing has made a huge splash in the track-performance world by introducing wheels with specs that mainstream manufacturers don’t dare to touch. Starting out with 15″ wheels on Miatas made his name, but left folks with larger wheels wanting something more. When he announced a 17″ product I instantly became elated. The 17″ wheel, dubbed the 6URL, was actually developed for the S2000 market. But as luck would have it, the 17×9 version on a 48 mm offset ended up being a perfect fit on out HT-Spec TSX, even when lowered significantly with an HT-Spec Damper Kit!

We test fitted a set back in May and posted the results on our Facebook page. With a 255/40-17 tire, which is slightly smaller overall diameter than the stock 215/50-17 size, we found the rubbing to be minimal with our HT-Spec Damper Kit set to a 1.75″ drop, and non-existent at a 1.5″ drop or with a very slight roll to the fender in the rear! The front required only a removal of the fender liner clip and no rolling needed at all. There is hardly any clearance on the insides, but the front wheels/tires do not rub ANYWHERE on the inboard side, even at full lock in a loaded U-turn!

The tire we chose for this package was a Hankook Ventus V12 evo K110. This tire has gotten a lot of great press, most notably in the last Car & Driver tire shootout, where it came in a close second to a much more expensive Michelin PS2. Check the link for details on this tire. The excellent rating and bargain pricing were all it took to convince me this was the tire to go for. Optionally the Hankook Ventus R-S3 would be the tire to get for track performance. The high level of grip makes it a performance champ, but the softer compound wears fast on the street. We might get a second set with the R-S3s, but for now the V12 evos are definitely the way to go!

For your own HT-Spec wheel and tire combo, please visit!

Truly this is the MOST tire you can get on a TSX without fender modifications*! That is how this wheel and tire combo got to be HT-Spec! Healthy sidewalls = stock-like comfort. Wide tires = macho grip. Perfectly fitted wheels = Minimal-to-no rub.

* You’ll note we are running camber on this car. In the images the rear camber is natural and un-modified and comes purely from the lowered ride. We are planning to install an Ingalls Camber Kit and bring it to an even 2.0 degrees. We will need to roll the rear fender about 1/4″, which is almost nothing. The front camber in these images is displaying about 1 degree negative as achieved with Skunk2 Pro Series Front Camber Arms. We will be dialing in about 1.5 to 2.0 degrees negative up front as well. For information on camber and the effect it has in improving performance, read here.

I've been rolling on these 17x7 M5s for a while. They are nice and all. But not really turning me on.

Oooo, wheels and tires mounted...getting nervous.

949Racing Luggies and hub rings are ready. We'll use the purple rings. The golds were on hand just in case we had the size wrong.

949Racing Luggies. Very light aluminum, and unlike most other racing nuts, these are fully threaded.

A little weight comparo. Mugen M5, 17x7, +48 with a 215/50-17 is 45.8 lbs.

An HT-Spec 949Racing 6ULR (size 17x9 +48) with a 255/40-17 tire weighs 43.7 lbs! 2 lb savings per corner for 40+ mm in tire? YES PLEASE!

Here is a little visual comparison of how much rubber we are actually adding.

Something like 8.5 inches on a 215...

...and 9.75 inches or so on our new 255. Yikes!

Front hub ring installed and ready for wheel (ooo, Racingbrake 2-piece rotors are the centerpiece of the HT-Spec Stage 3 Brake Kit).

Rear hub ring installed and ready for wheel (note fancy HT-Spec Damper, Chassis Brace Kit, and Brake Package items. Who can see the HT-Spec item that is MISSING from this picture?).

And without further ado, installed pics!

Tein reduces MSRP on popular Basic, SS, SS-P, and FLEX Damper kits!

Thursday, June 24th, 2010

Mostly because the economy had forced Tein out of contention for many customers due to pricing increases, Tein’s reduced sales volume has encouraged a reduction in pricing for popular SS, Basic, FLEX, and SS-P kits.

Check out the new pricing on! Our Acura parts pricing has been updated, and we are updating S2000 kits as we speak!


For camber rear kits, avoid parts with aftermarket ball-joints.

Friday, May 7th, 2010

I had a customer in today, 05 TSX with some Tein Basics set at a 13.5″ height all around (measured from center of center cap to fender lips). The camber in the rear was corrected with an SPC camber kit, also sold under the CT or Comptech name.

Some of you know from reading our posts and such over the years that we recommend the Ingalls brand of camber kits for the rear on a TSX/TL/CL/Accord. And this post is to tell you why.

Because the arms mentioned, in addition to those sold by Megan Racing and Eibach, all replace the upper arm in the rear to an adjustable part. The rear upper arm that these kits replace on these cars contains a ball-joint to attach it to the rear hub carrier.

SPC rear camber arm, showing the ball-joint link.

SPC rear camber arm, showing the ball-joint link.

The problem with replacing the stock arm with an aftermarket one is that the stock ball-joints have really high quality rubber on the boots, and are deigned to work within a specific range of motion. Because aftermarket ball-joint boots are of inferior material, and are subjected to altered range of motion (when installed on a lowered car), the boots tend to become brittle and they brake after a while.

SPC rear camber arm after 60k miles and 4 years.

SPC rear camber arm after 60k miles and 4 years.

It is for this reason we will mostly recommend the Ingalls camber kit for these rear multi-link applications. The rear Ingalls kit is a set of 2 arms per side, which replace lower links in the suspension, 4 arms in total between the left rear and right rear.

Ingalls 38725 rear camber kit for the 1g Acura TSX/7g Accord/3g TL

Ingalls 38725 rear camber kit for the 1g Acura TSX/7g Accord/3g TL

    There are many benefits of this kit over the ball-joint type kits mentioned above:

  • Camber has plenty of adjustment range.
  • The bottom of the wheel is pulled in, rather than pushing the top out (can give more fender clearance for lower offset wheel fitments or wider tires).
  • No ball joints mean they will last much longer than the other kits.
  • Easier access for the alignment shop to adjust
  • Easier to install, since ball-joints can be a bear to remove at times.

So, that is why Ingalls rear camber kits are the #1 recommended rear camber kit on rear multi-link Honda and Acuras. They are HT-Spec!

Don’t believe me? We had another customer in this afternoon for an Ultra Racing Rear Lower Brace test fit (works perfect with a CT exhaust BTW). This particular customer was running a set of Tein Super Street dampers and Ingalls 38725s on his ‘04 TSX with OVER 150,000 MILES!

Ingalls rear camber kit 38725/38720, after 150,000 miles

Ingalls rear camber kit 38725/38720, after 150,000 miles

Still in perfect condition!

In summation, replacing factory ball joints is undesirable, so if at all possible, go for the part that avoids doing so.