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ATLP, XLR8, and RV6 J-pipes tested together. ATLP V2-R debut!

  • Posted: 12-19-2014 02:29 AM
  • 3 Comments
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We did this test a while back but it took a while because we were only able to get the raw data files from Church Auto Testing to publish. I needed to put them in excel and normalize all the data. It was a lot more involved than I expected but I didn't want someone calling us out for not having the graphs cross at the right place, etc. The numbers have not been fiddled with at all. If anyone wants the csvs shoot me an email.

The test car was a boosted TL-S with a Flashpro and a high boost pulley. It was an automatic as well. If gains and losses are viewed as percentages we feel the relative graph data above will be indicative of what we would see on an NA J-series.

AFR and IAT were both monitored closely for consistency. No pipes required retuning to get these numbers, and tuning would not have needed noticeable differences (we played with it...it would not have). But the tune in the car was optimized when we got to it having just been dialed in on the same dyno the day before.

All tests done on the same day, same car, same dyno, same procedure:
3 pulls to heat up engine, then rest for 5 minutes, then one pull to be the one to use for the test. In all cases the "1 pull" was about on average with the rest of the pre-runs. We feel this data is all repeatable and reliable when done under the same conditions.

Full disclosure, at the time of testing and posting, ATLP is produced by Heeltoe. If anyone wants to call Church Testing to validate the test, feel free. Again, the raw data is available for whoever wants it.

Our take-aways:

  • Pay attention to the scale on dyno graphs. We posted no power figures to force you to look at the scale. The first two graphs are the same, but the scales are different.
  • 3" piping makes a difference, no matter what j-pipe you have. ATLP is currently the only one on the market offering a bolt-on options for it!
  • The original ATLP V2 gives up power when you are driving slow, but makes more power than anything else when you are driving quicker than...well, slow.
  • The XLR8 V2 is really similar to the V2-R. Pipe lengths are almost the same But we didn't test it with a 3" mid pipe to see if that makes much of a difference on an XLR8. Wish I would have!
  • RV6 vs XLR8 are here and there and back and forth...but the ATLP performs best on anything above your automatic's torque converter lockup point.
  • The original ATLP V2 with a Race Pipe and our 3" sections make for the option to get for the most power. The larger piping adds to the gains and helps to recover some lost bottom-range torque.

In other news, the ATLP options were easier to install. RV6 fit great but awkward to install with the long floppy pipes. XLR8 was off a bit. It took more forcing on the cats and didn't line up as well as the others on the cat-back.

They all sounded about the same. The 3" makes the car sound like a monster though.

ATLP V2 vs XLR8 V2 vs RV6 V3



Of course no matter what pipe you choose, Heeltoeauto.com has the service and website you need to make your decision where to buy a simple one!

XLR8 V2 vs ATLP V2-R



All ATLP Shootout



We spent a lot of money and time to develop an ATLP version of the XLR8 pipe with a 3" collector. And to learn that we still like the ATLP V2 best. It allows you to swap a stock cat back in unlike all the others, fits great, sounds great, makes great power...and is the least costly.



3 Comments


 
Kirk Doty
01-27-2016 02:00 PM at 2:00 PM
Thanks for doing these test. I have a stock 2006 TL 3.2 Manual. In the Take-Away section of this article you said and I quote "The original ATLP V2 gives up power when you are driving slow, but makes more power than anything else when you are driving quicker than...well, slow."

Forgive me if this is an ignorant question, but are you saying that the ALTP V2 produces less power than the stock j-pipe when driving slow or are you saying that when compared to the RV6 and the XLR8 that it makes less power when driving slow?

That leaves me with this question: Will all three j-pipes produce more power through out the entire power band of the 3G TL when compared to the OEM stock j-pipe? Does the stock j-pipe out perform any of the aftermarket j-pipes in any situation?

Lastly, I'm thinking about buying one of these j-pipes and mating up to the Tanebe exhaust system. Which of the three j-pipes tested do you think would go good with that cat-back system?

Thank you for your time!
Administrator Note:
We did not test any pipes against a stock configuration in this test. It is generally known that all these pipes will produce more power than stock in nearly all ranges. The power the V2 gives up is looking more squarely against the other pipes in the test.
 
Anthony V DiNome
01-07-2015 10:25 AM at 10:25 AM
I purchased the 3" ATLP V2-R J-Pipe for my 05 tl several months ago and am very satisfied with my purchase. I completely replaced the entire exhaust system to all 3" pipe. The exhaust system is now is the 3" ATLP V2-R J-Pipe followed by 3" pipe to where the mid muffler used to be in which i placed the flowmaster super 10 single chamber muffler 3" in/outlet followed by a 3" y pipe fabricated by my exhaust guy then #" pipe all the way out to the back with rear muffler delete. So essentially there re no other mufflers just the super 10 in place where the mid-muffler used to be. The car sound phenomenal wish i could put a sound byte on here because words don't do it justice but the combination of the 3" atlp v2r, the complete 3" exhaust, rear muffler delete and super 10 mid pipe definitely make it sound monstrous. Not to mention u can definitely feel noticeable gains in soon as my foot hits the peddle. i wanted something raw/aggressive sounding not tuner like, 100% achieved it.
 
Paul Frankel
12-30-2014 11:59 AM at 11:59 AM
Great comparison. I am looking for a J-pipe for a NINTH generation Accord Coupe J35. Is that available? Many thanks.

[mrheeltoe] A 9th Gen Accord J-pipe and Cat Back are in the works from ATLP right now.

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