I have done it that way and found it to be a lot easier (and quieter) to do it alone.
1- Get a bottle and clear tube.
2- Hook up the tube to the bleeder screw on the driver front caliper, and run it down to the bottle.
3- Open bleeder screw.
4- Get in car and start pumping. Pump until the old yucky fluid has mostly run out of the reservoir, and there is a good volume in the bottom of the bottle. If you go too far you will hear a sucking noise from the reservoir (no harm, will just need a tad extra bleeding when you get to that step).
5- When the reservoir is empty, close the bleeder valve.
6- Lightly clean any gunk from the inside of the reservoir with a lint-free towel. Do not use any chemicals. Green gunk is water! Get it out.
7- Fill the reservoir with new fluid that is compatible with the old (not the same necessarily, but compatible).
8- Open the bleeder screw again, and start pumping, making sure the end of the tube is still submerged in the fluid in the bottle.
9a- After about a dozen pumps, get out, check the level in the reservoir and top off as needed. Inspect the fluid in the tube to see the clarity and check if there are bubbles.
9b- If there are bubbles or contamination in the fluid, pump some more, maybe 5-6 more times. Then recheck.
10- Repeat step 9a-b until the the fluid is clear and bubble-free. (At this point, we have NEVER closed the bleeder screw once we started bleeding. You can observe the fluid in the line actually continues to flow OUT of the caliper, debunking the whole "sucking bad fluid back in" myth. A check valve in the master cylinder prevents this.).
11- Repeat 8-10 for all the rest of the calipers. I don't know what order is best. I don't believe it matters at all. Mostly it is important to get the air and old fluid out of the system.
12- Give the reservoir one final top off. Get in the car an press the pedal a couple times to make sure it gets hard. Turn the car on and pump the pedal a bit. If it goes to the floor you did something wrong and start over. But it should feel fine :)